South Island Tuesday 31.3.15 Westport to Hanmer Springs

Dinner last night in Wesport turned out to be top class at the Dennison Dog. Last night was a most comfortable BnB . The bed was great , the breakfast absolutely tops, and the proprietors lovely people. Havenlee BnB well named. Before we left Westport we drove through town and out to Cape Foulwind, so named by Captain Cook because of the weather, but the weather was kind to us. We had to retrace our steps through the Lower Buller River Gorge and the scenery was looking magnificent. Many photo stops. Reef ton was reached late morning so we spent some time in the very comprehensive Visitors Centre, so full of information. Excellent displays on the varied history and ecology of the area, then found a cafe where we had an early lunch. A small roast veg salad for me and Julie and a pie for the men. Tasty. On we drove through the magnificent beech forests of the Victoria State Park

Tarn at St James Walkway

Lower Buller River Gorge

Beech forest

. Beech trees so thick as to be almost impenetrable. We reached the summit (907 metres) of the Lewis Pass after passing through some spectacular mountain scenery. Deep ravines and high mountains. At The St. James walkway we pulled over once again to do a short and very beautiful nature walk and to photograph the tarn. Just about the prettiest sights one could ever see. Later we stopped once again by a trout stream and ate the muffins Jan (at Havenlee) had given us before we left this morning. Just what we needed. Our route then moved us away from the forests and into the Waiau River valley which has some spectacular cliffs and is backed by bare rugged mountains. Then along the river flats and along to here at Hanmer Springs.
Our BnB tonight is luxurious to say the least. Annerleigh luxury BnB has lived up to its name. Huge room with beautiful furnishings, terrific en suite and a huge lounge for guests to relax in. Lovely hosts.
Out to dinner tonight to a restaurant called 31. Gets great reviews so that should be another good meal.

South Island Monday 30.3.15 Takaka to Westport

We got away by 8.40am as we had a long day in front of us.  Back over the Takaka Hill and the extensive lovely views.  A stroll in Motueka which has the street lined with very pretty hanging baskets of impatiens. Most towns seem to made attractive in this way.  A lovely custom.  Morning tea in the hamlet of Wakefield and delicious light lemon muffin.  Lake Rotoiti at St. Arnaud by 12pm. Magnificent lake, views, bush to waterline, dozens of walks in the area.  Two Japanese couples were in their wedding regalia and busy taking photos of each other on the jetty with the views in the background. Visiting Lake Rotoiti brought back memories from a visit I made there about 55 years ago when there was no village or other infrastructure. The DOC centre is one of the best I have ever seen.  On we went to the next stop. About 10kms from Murchison we found the longest highest swing bridge in NZ which traverses the Buller River.  A bit scary as the swing bridge has a narrow metal grid foot pad and netting sides suspended from cables. Had a walk on the other side fighting off the sand flies.  Continued on through the spectacular Upper and Lower Buller Gorges finally arriving in Westport at 4.45pm.  Today we passed through many different types of scenery, pine forests, native forests, river valleys, etc. etc. all of it beautiful. Today we have been in NZ a week and have had a marvellous time so far.  The people have been delightful, friendly and hospitable and the scenery unrivalled in its unspoilt beauty.

Lake Rotoiti

Lake Rotoiti

Swing bridge over the Buller River

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South Island 29.3.15 Takaka (Farewell Spit tour)

Yesterday ended on a high note with our 3rd visit of the day to the Wholemeal Cafe for dinner. Three curries and a seafood chowder. Excellent food and service in a restaurant with atmosphere. We were entertained by a fellow on a keyboard who was then joined by the proprietor who sang many songs from "our era". Such an enjoyable interlude and a fitting end to a good day.
Up early to leave by 7.40am for Collingwood to pay for the bus to Farewell Spit.  Then on to Puponga to get the bus. Poured while we waited but soon the weather cleared and we had great weather for our journey along the Spit.  Firstly our guide took us as far as he could to the Cape Farewell end of the Spit where we got out of the bus and had a stroll around to look at the birds and seals, cliffs etc. back on the bus to traverse the spit to get to the western side where we drove along the Spit with the Tasman Sea on our left.  Seals, oystercatchers, shags, etc. etc. the commentary was excellent and we learnt many interesting facts about the formation of the Spit and its history, natural and human. It is an ever evolving place, constantly changing and well worth visiting as this is a unique environment. We reached the Lighthouse after 35 kms of beach driving and were given morning tea. As the light is now automated the keepers houses are used for other purposes eg  by DOC and the tour company. The history of this tiny settlement to service the light was really interesting. Before returning we got as close as possible to the large gannet colony near the end of the Spit.  Also stopped on the return journey to let those of us so inclined climb a high sandhill and run down. It was blowing hard , although fine, and we got well and truly sand blasted.
Coffee at the Farewell Spit Cafe where we sat on the balcony overlooking the lovely view.  Back in Takaka by 4pm and we watched the cricket final.  I cooked a chicken and veg dinner.  An early night.

The view from Cape Farewell Cafe

Cape Farewell end of Farewell Spit

Bill on the beach

South Island Friday 28.3.15 Kaiteriteri to Takaka

I cooked breakfast for us in our apartment this morning.  Bacon, eggs, fruit, or muesli for Julie. But it appears that the good weather has deserted us , at least temporarily.  It is rather damp and grey at the moment. The accommodation here was spacious and clean and well set up with even a washing machine.
Takaka was our destination today and to get there we had to go over the Takaka hill. A very high, long, steep, windy and slow road. Eventually we reached the summit and walked about 10 minutes to a lookout which gave us the most magnificent long range views over the valley below. Many bellbirds, tuis, and a very interesting black fantail along the walk.
Checked into the Golden Bay Motel after a late morning tea at the Wholemeal Cafe. The best hot cross buns liberally sprinkled with cinnamon sugar.  Our apartment here is clean and nice but our bedrooms are very small. Our suitcases are out in the small lounge! Back to the Wholemeal Cafe for mouth watering seafood chowder before driving a short distance to Pu Pu Springs.  Pu Pu Springs are the largest fresh water springs in the southern hemisphere with volume and clarity and purity of water. Another lovely little walk through the native bush to get to the springs. The volumes of crystal clear water welling up is amazing and it forms its own river as it flows away. A very special place.
On our return we called in at the supermarket and stocked up for the next two days breakfast, lunch tomorrow, wine, etc. we then took a stroll through the town but because it was Saturday afternoon after 2 pm most of the interesting shops were closed. Takaka has a long history with many buildings dating from late 1800s and early 1900s. It is an area which attracts many arts crafts people and artisans as well as alternative lifestyle people. There are also many excellent murals on building walls.
Relaxed in our apartment with Bill and John watching the rugby between the Chiefs and the Cheetahs.

The Wholemeal Cafe where we ate the most delicious meals.

The colourful trunk of a young Matai (NZ black Pine)

A portion of a mural in Takaka

Looking down through a great depth of  water to where water is welling up at Pu Pu Springs

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27.3.15 continued

Cathedral photos.

Pipe organ

Interior view

Two of the many lovely Stained glass windows

South Island Friday 27.3.15 Nelson to Kaiteriteri

Our dinner last night was a success at Hopgoods Restaurant. It was absolutely top drawer. Our food was beautiful, the service good and the company excellent. It was so good to catch up with John and to get to know his wife, Gay. Four of us had the Angus Beef Fillet etc. Superb. The other two had the confit duck and rated it the best ever.
Another lovely comfy bed and substantial continental breakfast. Picked up a couple of  items at a supermarket on our way up to view the Cathedral. We had a good wander inside this lovely, gracious and peaceful building and had a brief drive around Nelson before heading on our way.  Nelson gives the impression of being a particularly pleasant place to live. Next stop was at Hoglund Glass near Richmond. The artisans here produce the most beautiful art works in glass. A delight to view.  Morning tea was enjoyed at the tiny hamlet of Mapua at The Naked Bun coffee shop.  Expensive at $4.80 a cup! But very good coffee.
Finally arrived in Kaiteriteri at 1 pm. Fish and chips on the golden beach for lunch.  Hot and fresh. We booked on Dave's coffee cruise to Split Rock leaving at 2.30pm. Booked into Torlesse Motel in a 2 bed apartment which is spacious, comfortable and clean. Back to the boat. A glorious day, blue skies, no wind, and warm weather. Perfect for a leisurely boat trip up the coastline of the Abel Tasman National Park. Such a relaxing perfect way to spend an afternoon. Pretty scenery, birds, kayakers etc. Dinner tonight was a pizza for us, a hamburger for John and fish and chips for Julie, all eaten at a table on the edge of the golden beach with the sun on our backs and the shimmering water in front. Delicious.

Split Rock Kaiteriteri

Kayakers, Abel Tasman National Park

Typical shore view, Abel Tasman Nat Park from Dave's boat

The pipe organ in the Cathedral

Interior of the Cathedral

South Island Thurs. 26.3.15 Picton to Nelson

A good nights sleep and awoke to a cloudy but pleasantly warm morning. Breakfast, more chatting and we departed at 9.40am with Julie and John in the back seat. All the luggage neatly stowed in the boot. We took the scenic route across the Queen Charlotte Sound drive to Nelson. A very windy road but we travelled slowly stopping at various lookouts to enjoy the extensive views. Morning tea in the hamlet of Havelock at the bakery and arrived in Nelson in time for lunch. Delicious seafood chowder at the Yello Cafe. Next stop the Wearable Art World and car museum. Both exceeded expectations. Such colour and imagination in the WOW and the car museum one of the best one could see. Booked into our BnB (Sussex House) which is a beautiful gracious old home and very comfortable. Dinner out tonight with a friend from our early days, John Mitchell.

Waterfall yesterday with seal pups

Exhibits at World of Wearable art

Costume made from balloons

South Island Wed. 25.3.15 Kaikoura to Picton

Fresh fruit salad and muesli etc for breakfast after a comfortable night. We set off on the day's adventures about 9am.  First stop Ohau Point Seal Lookout.from the road we overlooked a large seal colony with a great number of playful deal pups frolicking in rock pools and generally having a ball. Lots of large adults reclining among the rocks.  A short distance further along the road we stopped at a sign saying Ohau Stream and Waterfall, 10 minute walk. What a treat. The seal pups clamber up this rocky narrow stream and play in the pools on the way to the waterfall. the narrow track ran between the walls of a vertical sided gorge withe rocky stream below. At the end of the gorge the waterfall tumbled down the cliff from a great height and into a a pool where more pups were having the time of their life. The scenery along the road continued to be spectacular with seascapes ,rocky reefs and steep hills clothed in impenetrable forests rising directly beside the road. Morning tea was calling and we found the Kekerengu Store. A lovely building featuring native timbers and with a lawn right to the waters edge. Later we passed through the awake re Valley and encountered our first grape vines, looking so very healthy. Then into the Waieau Valley, a noted wine area. We passed quite a few names we are familiar with eg. Wither Hills. Lunch time saw us in Blenheim, a delightful town, looking prosperous, and sporting upmarket loos! By 2pm we were in Picton and found our way to Gavin and Caroline Baylisses homehigh up on a hill overlooking the sound so with magnificent views. They made us very welcome and Julie and John Salmon were there waiting for us. After a cup of tea Gavin and Caroline took us a tour of Picton featuring various lookouts and bringing us up to date on happenings in Picton. Most interesting and such a picturesque town. On the way back to the house we had a short walk to view the remains of an early Maori Pa. BbQ for dinner and talking before an early night. What a fabulous place to live.

South Island continued. Tues 24.3.15 Christchurch to Kaikoura

The garden BnB proved to have most comfortable bed and terrific water pressure in the shower. Breakfast was tasty and ample. Bill had fruit, yogurt, and scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and home grown tomatoes while I had fruit, yogurt, and bacon and eggs and tomato.  Such a beautiful day, blue skies,  and warm.  Through the Waipara Valley we cruised, admiring the vineyards and recognising many of the names. At morning tea time we stopped in the cute little village of Cheviot. The two rivers Gallery and cafe provided us with excellent coffee and some great wooden and marble sculptures to admire. The road then headed into the hills for a change of scenery, before dropping down to run right beside the coast. Our route was now very picturesque with the heavily forested hills coming right to waters edge with the road cut into the hills with the railway line running along on the inside. Several tunnels had to be passed through. Scenery to more than rival the Great Ocean Road, especially as it was such a perfect day.
Arrived in Kaikoura at 12.15pm and went immediately to book a boat trip at 1pm to see Albatrosses and other sea birds. Raced down the street and had a quick sandwich at a bakery before the boat trip. Unfortunately, although it was a glorious day there was still quite a swell and I soon began to feel somewhat queasy. The birds were great, mostly Albatrosses(wandering and and shy)(huge wing spans as they swooped in), giant petrels and Cape petrels as well as many others spied during the trip.  Sadly, I ended up making good use of the bucket! The skipper also took us past islands smothered in guano with colonies of baby NZ fur seals and terns etc.

Shy Albatross and Cape Petrel below

Once we returned to shore and booked into our BnB I rested on the bed to recover while Bill went for a walk. The Pier hotel, which is along the coast a bit, was recommended for dinner. I had lamb shank (nice and tender) and Bill ate a whitebait omelette. After dinner we continued along to Cape Kean to see the seal colony. No seals in residence but a beautiful sunset and truly lovely scenery. Kaikoura is a place with a lovely flavour, nestled between mountains at the back, sea in front. Stunning. Had a small homemade ice cream on the way back. Bill watched the end of the cricket between Sri Lanka and NZ before bed.
Brook House, our accommodation for tonight, is homely but comfortable, friendly and clean, and very quiet.

New Zealand South Island trip 23 March to 17 April 2015

An early start to catch the plane at 9.30 am. Air New Zealand was disappointing in that the seating was cramped to say the least. To make up for that the staff was friendly and efficient and the plane left and arrived on time. Picked up our car from Thrifty Car Rentals and found our way, without difficulty to our first night's accommodation. The Garden BnB is well located close to a large shopping centre (Northwood) and restaurants. Our room is very comfortable and well set up and the proprietor, Gay, very pleasant. Dinner at a restaurant down the road and just around the corner on Leinster Street was excellent. My pork belly was probably the nicest I have ever had and Bill had no complaints with his crispy lightly battered fish and chips. A cup of tea back in our cosy room and bed.