Miramsmeanderings: jiaguyuan to Dunhuan 1.10.13

Today we had another long bus ride of about 6 hours through arid country along the Hexi corridor. With Gobi desert to the north and the Qilin mountains to the south. A rather desolate landscape mostly. We passed at least three humungous wind farms seen through the murky atmosphere off in the desert. Many thousands of turbines in rows disappearing off into the distance. There seemed to be many big roads and rail lines traversing this area but very little habitation. Eventually we cane to Dunhuan, a very nice town that suddenly appeared out of the landscape as a green lush oasis. Such a contrast to the surrounding area. Green and pleasant and the population looks better dressed than in Jiaguyuan. The four of us were desperate for some western food and meat. Frank told us of a restaurant known as Dicos which is a MacDonalds take off. Found it upstairs and it was full of young people. Ordered chicken breast wraps. Juicy tender chicken breast and fresh lettuce with sweet chilli sauce in a wrap. So delicious. Afterwards we took a walk around the town to see as much as possible. Before dinner we were taken on the bus to the outskirts of town to "view the sunset" over the sand hills. Many many people doing the same thing so quite a long walk from where we left the bus to the edge of town and across the sand to a low sand hill where we parked ourselves to watch. The Crescent Moon spring, which is a small lake (pond)t hat never dries upwas directly in front of us. The sandhills of the singing Sand Mountains behind the lake are enormously high and steep. There were people like ants swarming up the sandhills. Also vast numbers of camels carrying people to the summit. It was very pleasant sitting on the sand watching it all happening around us. We waited and waited for the sunset but the sun disappeared and that was it! No colours at all in the sky! Very strange but that apparently is how it is. Once we left our spot we had a very long walk of several kms to find our bus. So it was a very late dinner in the hotel. Nice hotel and a good shower but not a good nights rest as the bed seemed to be harder than ever and it was a bit hot.
Wednesday 2.10.13
Today we visited the Mogao Caves. A mind blowing experience. The caves are magnificent Buddhist Grottoes dating from the 4th centuryto the 14th . The more than 500 caves are over an area of 1,000 metres set in a cliff in the desert and are filled with superb magnificent Budhist art and frescoes. One of the great sights of China. The paintings are phenomenal and the we saw the two enormous Buddhas, one sitting and one reclining. The colours and condition of the paintings are amazing after so many centuries. Still appear to be as bright as when they were done. Each cave is completely covered in frescoes and statues. Caves varying from very large to quite small. 45,000 square metres of paintings. A real highlight of our trip along the Silk Road. Sadly, but easy to understand no photos are allowed of the caves.
After lunch we visited the excellent Dunhuan Museum. Then the four of us went for a walk to get snacks, bananas, biscuits etc. for the long drive later and the train trip. Called into Dicos again and Bill and I had two ice creams each and an orange drink.
Later we left the hotel for the drive to Liuyuan where we caught a train at 11pm for Turpan. A 2 1/2 hour drive in a rickety old uncomfortable bus over the bumpiest road you can imagine. Through barren desert country. Just as well this is an "adventure" trip. We passed another huge wind farm that covered many kilometres. We arrived in a most unprepossessing town and went into a very basic railway station. Frank says, "it is China of the 1920s". A 3 hour wait for the train. The toilets are a long drain that one squats over! A banana and a biscuit for dinner.
Eventually told the train was coming and dragged our cases up stairs and down stairs and over platforms in the dark to get to the correct spot. Only 8 minutes allowed to get us all boarded so crucial to be standing in the right spot. All piled on and found our "soft sleeper". The train was very dirty and the washroom was filthy. Judy's pillowcase had holes and was very dirty as was her doona. Very grubby all round and a most unhelpful staff. We sort of slept.

Sitting in the sand overlooking the Crescent Moon Spring waiting for the sunset.