Mildura to Sydney

From Mildura an uneventful drive to Hay across the Hay Plains.  Quite boring, in fact, but lots of heavy trucks thundering along.  Hay CP was friendly and well run and it was a pleasant stroll into town for a coffee in the afternoon.
We took the shortest route to Grenfell the next day and made good time especially as this road was almost completely devoid of traffic.  For the first half of the journey the land appeared unused but then we once again encountered wheat and canola crops.  Set up in the small and neatly mown council van park and then walked up through town.  Grenfell is an old town and has some charm but, sadly, there are many empty shops and buildings which gives it a generally shoddy look.  There is a nice library and art gallery with a bicentennial quilt depicting the history and economy of Grenfell. Henry Lawson was born here so they make the most of his very brief time here. We visited his birthplace which is marked by a gum tree planted by his daughter in 1924. Went to the Railway Hotel for dinner.  A typical country pub with the locals sitting around the bar as if they are there almost permanently.  The meal was good, nicely presented and the waitress a gem.  Our luck was out with the meat raffles though.
Grenfell to Lithgow turned out to be one of the prettiest drives with extensive views over lush rolling farmland and hills.  Stopped in Carcoar, another historic village for morning tea.  Carcoar is well kept and original and was originally destined to be a larger centre.  However, things didn't work out that way.  Worthy of a longer visit in future.  Arrived in Lithgow at lunch time and in the afternoon drove up to Hassan's Walls, the highest lookout in the Blue Mountains.  Wow 360 degree views.  Too big to photograph. Then went out to another old village.  Rydal, named after the English village where William Wordsworth grew up, has taken that on board and has gone into daffodils in a big way.  Glorious gardens and public spaces bursting with daffodils.  Really characterful public buildings and cute cottages.  A delightful spot.  .
Last day.  From Lithgow we proceeded slowly down through he Blue Mountains along Bell's Line.
 Lots steep ups and downs and a strong wind but lovely mountain scenery.  Good views of the humungous Blue Mountains cliffs and valleys.   Bought a home made apple pie in Bilpin, the apple orchard centre.  Arrived at Narrabeen North Big 4 CP at lunch time.  Had lunch and packed and left the van settled into storage for the next 10 days.  Only 25 minutes to Angela's home.  A family dinner over at Paul and Alisons' Matthew is developing fast and is a beautiful child.  Given a photo book of his second year.

Bill and Henry Lawson in Grenfell

Daffodils, Rydal

Matthew, already into Play Stations

Paul

Alison, unwell unfortunately

Adam

Laura

Angela

Renmark to Mildura

Found a good car wash in Mildura and it cost us $29 to wash the van.  It looks much better but still a long way from perfect. Also washed the Toyota so we look almost respectable again especially as we also got Bill a haircut. We have never really looked at Mildura so decided to spend two nights here.  In the morning we took a walk along the Murray River passing lots of houseboats of all sizes and conditions along the way. Decided to go out to Wentworth to see the confluence of the Darling and the Murray.  A pleasant drive out through Merbein passing lots grapevines etc.  Walked to the meeting of the waters along a narrow track which took about 20 minutes each way.  Looking across the junction of the rivers we could see a park, observation tower etc on the other bank so we hadn't needed to walk!  Then drove to find this park and climb up the tower etc.  Then it was lunch time so found a cafe and had the worst lunch of the trip.  Back at the van Bill began cleaning the red staining off the exterior of the van around the edges of all the hatches etc. Makes a tremendous difference to the appearance of the van.

Streaky Bay to Renmark

Now we really feel we have the drive to Sydney in front of us and that our trip to the west is finished. When we reached Wudinna we went looking for a toilet block and discovered that Wudinna is quite a nice little town.  Had a really good coffee and corn flake biscuit at the bakery.  Today was a rather windy drive.  called into Iron Knob to find a spot for lunch.  Iron Knob is a very sad place with a lot of derelict buildings although it appears there is some activity still at the mine.  Not somewhere I would want to live.  Spent the night in Port Augusta and aimed for Burra the following day.  Stopped in Crystal Brook for morning tea and had a stroll through the historic township.  Lots of lovely old stone buildings and a delightful park and children's play ground, but like so many small towns we have seen, is really struggling with lots of empty shops. The countryside today was very picturesque with rolling hills and seemingly endless vistas of green wheat and acid yellow  canola crops.  In Burra by lunchtime so had plenty of time to have a good look around this lovely old town.  While walking past a row of historic cottages were invited into a gallery by the artist in residence.  Glenys was friendly and chatty and told us much about the town and also showed us around her cottage which was an original from the 1800s.
Next stop, Gluepot, which belongs to Birdlife Australia.  A large property in the mallee about 60kms north of Waikerie up a dirt track that was at first very corrugated but later improved.  There are a number of campsites and roads around the property to bird hides dams etc where one is likely to see a variety of birds.  We picked up maps etc at the Visitor Centre and Tony, the volunteer ranger, directed us to Babbler Campground which was 3 kms further along a track.  It wasn't easy to get into but some clever wriggling saw us safely ensconced.  After lunch we took a long slow drive around a couple of the bird hides.  Sadly, because it has been so terribly dry there is no water in the dams and birds have largely deserted Gluepot for the moment which  was most disappointing.  It also got far too hot to do any of the walks.  Gluepot is mostly red sand, spinifex and mallee. It did cool down at sunset but then we were invaded by zillions of the tiniest insects.  The next morning after a slow breakfast we drove first of all to the Airstrip walk which was notable for the swathes of healthy large eremophilas in full bloom.  A great range of colours, reds, pinks, oranges, yellows, apricots. Yellow plumed honey eaters darting around everywhere enjoying the bounty of nectar.  Continued on to Old Gluepot and bird hides.  A few more birds than yesterday but mostly brown headed honey eaters, weebills, galahs, a raven, and a couple of wagtails.  By this time it was very hot, 33 deg, so we returned to camp, had an early lunch, hooked up and left.  The drive out was decidedly dusty but the van didn't leak any.  Got the ferry across to Waikerie found a service station, pumped up the tyres, had a coffee and a tart, then continued onto Renmark.

Karlgarin and the Nullabor to Streaky Bay

Bill let some air out of the truck tyres as we left Karlfarin in preparation for the 300km journey across the Great Western Woodlands on dirt roads from Hyden to Norseman.  The road turned out to be in excellent condition, mostly smooth and wide and through ever changing environments.  A most enjoyable two day trip and we had it to ourselves as we scarcely saw another vehicle.  We had lunch at The Breakaways, a most interesting and scenic area, with vast amounts of room if one wanted to camp, and colourful cliffs giving shelter.  At about 2p.m. we arrived at McDermid Rock, a very large granite outcrop situated well off the road.  As we had the detailed directions for the walk up and over the rock off we set.  It was a good leg stretcher, with a steep climb up to the summit.  Lovely views and a lot of interesting information. The directions were very necessary as the route was not always obvious and at one point they proved to incorrect but we found the correct direction and continued on.  It was such a lovely quiet bushy spot that we made camp here and had a peaceful night.   The next morning we cruised on along the excellent road to Disappointment Rock.  The track in was a liitle on the narrow side and  rather over hung with foliage but we scraped through with care.  Here we also did the walk and once again found some directions a little vague but after a worrying few minutes we eventually got it right.  .Still, another nice leg stretcher.  These huge granite outcrops are most interesting.  Also called in at Lake Johnson, a salt lake,  and had another short walk.  This would make another nice camp spot.  Arrived in Norseman about lunch time, pumped up tyres, emptied toilet, lunched, filled water tanks etc. before setting off to traverse the Nullabor.  Got away about 2.30p.m. and drove to Balladonia Roadhouse where we stopped for a break, a coffee and an ice cream, before continuing on to Woorlba Homestead free camp where a toilet has recently been installed.  Unfortunately, very few camp spots across the Nullabor have toilet facilites, which is a shame.  Another quiet night and in the morning put our watches 3/4 hour forward as we passed Caiguna.  Spent the next night at Eucla Roadhouse where we had a good roast dinner in the restaurant in company with a couple we had met previously when at Osprey Bay.  Fun evening.
So far there had been surprisingly sparse traffic on the Nullabor but today there were more trucks. We visited all the Lookouts over the Bunda Cliffs, so spectacular, although since our last visit they have been fenced off so it is impossible to get the edge as one did before.  Also called in to The Head of the Bight to look at the whales in the bay.  A great many lazing about but only about half a dozen close in with babies.  Lunched there then continued on to Coorabie Farm.  Coorabie  Farm is 8 kms off the Nullabor on the track to Fowler's Bay.  This turned out to be a real gem and a highlight.  A beautifully looked after manicured farm property with a quaint casual camp area.  A happy place where the owners shared the camp fire each evening making everyone feel welcome.  Great amenities, camp kitchen etc and lots of character. . A place where all campers sit around the fire socialising. Interaction with Poggy and Deb, the owners, gives Coorabie a unique flavour.  While we were here we drove down to Fowler's Bay, which is a tiny remote coastal fishing village backed by enormous blinding white sandhills.  We had a tasty crispy fish and chip lunch at the little cafe before going on to find our way to Mexican Hat and Wandilla Beaches.  Stunning scenery.  Intensely blue and turquoise water,crashing white waves, sheer cliffs, and birds.  A very special remote coastline.
From Coorabie we passed through Ceduna where Bill picked up some oysters that he had been hanging out for, and decided to continue on to Streaky Bay as it was such a beautiful day.  Had a walk along the beach to finish off this day.

The Breakaways

 Balancing rock on lip of "wave" at McDermid Rock

 Fowler's Bay with sandhill in background

Bunda Cliffs

 Bunda Cliffs

 Mexican Hat Beach

Wandilla Beach

Mexican Hat Beach

 Wandilla Beach

 Cliff formation

Wongan Hills to Karlgarin near Hyden

We left Wongan Hills on a miserable morning.  By far the worst weather we have experienced this trip.  Traveled through the Granite belt towns, more wheat as far as the eye could see, all looking very lush.  Sadly the small towns we passed through looked rather sad with many empty shops and nobody on the streets apart from the odd vehicle outside the local IGA.  It appears that with the amalgamation of farms into huge properties the population has diminished greatly.  All these towns are dying.  The roads are deserted in this part of the world.  It was a cold day and we didn't feel like camping out at any of the spectacular granite outcrops along the way.  Next time maybe?  We ended up at historic Mangowine Homestead.  Bob, the caretaker, made us very welcome and showed us over the house built in 1890 even though it was closed.  We spent the night there and had a nice walk around the property late in the afternoon finding lots more orchids.  Continued on to Tressies Caravan Park in Karlgarin the next day.  We first stayed here 10 years ago when the park was just opening and it is still as welcoming and delightful as it was then.  Laurel and Merv are still here and Merv now has an exceptional collection of artifacts in a museum.  He gave us a tour of the museum and played us records on very early gramophones.  We spent a couple of hours inspecting his eclectic collection. The next day we did several walks out at The Humps . A good climb up over and around the huge granite rock. We had a very pleasant social time here and went to the local pub with one of the other couples, Andrew and Margaret from Northcliffe,  staying at the caravan park. Deja vue from 10 years ago.

Mangowine Homestead. Built of rubble stone in late 1800s . First as a wayside inn,

Historic  Mangowine Homestead behind the Inn

View from top of The Hump near Wave Rock

Another view from The Hump over endless canola crops.

Coalseam Cons. Park to Wongan Hills

Reluctantly left Coalseam and continued on our merry way to the wheat town of Wongan Hills.  A pleasant little town with an excellent visitor centre.  Along the way we passed through endless wheat and canola paddocks of vast size.  Bright greens and almost blinding yellow of canola in full flower.  Not good for hay fever.  The knowledgeable gentleman at the visitor centre directed us to the best flower walks in the district.  The Wongan walk was very pretty with lots of new flowers including various dampieras and cowslip and donkey orchids.  We followed that up with the walk around Christmas Rock where we found ant orchids as well as many other species. Christmas Rock was very interesting in that the early pioneers had built out of rocks an aqueduct in order to collect the run off from Christmas Rock to supply the town.  Still operates today.   Also drove out of town to O'Brien's Lookout to see the extraordinary 360 degree views over a vast area of countryside.

Spider orchids

Ant Orchid

Dampiera

More cowslips

Donkey orchids everywhere

Kalbarri to Coalseam Conservation Park

On our way to Geraldton we deviated through Hutt River Province which is somewhere I had long been curious about.  The story of how Prince Leonard seceded from Australia is fascinating and he certainly had our sympathy.  It happened to be his 90th birthday on the day we visited and we had quite a conversation with him.  Quirky, definitely but with a huge intelligence.  Stopped in Northampton for lunch and this is a pleasant little historic town making a big effort to attract tourists especially caravaners. As soon as we were set up in the van park in Geraldton we went up town to look for an Athlete's Foot as Bill's sneakers were on their last legs.  Got a very colourful pair! Geraldton is a prosperous looking town with a busy port, very clean with attractive buildings.
very healthy.  On arrival in Mullewa we went to the annual wild flower show but were a little disappointed at the quantity and variety of flowers on display.  However, the very helpful young lady next door in the Visitor Centre gave us good directions to find wreath flowers and where the best everlastings were to be found. Drove immediately out to Pindar and the road to Tallering Station where we located an excellent display of wreath flowers.  The road out was a mass of everlastings in colours of yellows, whites, pinks, blues and so many different varieties of daisies and shrubs. Fabulous.  Lunch on the Pindar common before we found our way through more endless beautiful crops stretching as far as the eye could see to Coalseam Conservation Park.  What a beautiful place.  Excellent little free camp.  Parked amongst the flowers.  We were so lucky to arrive at the peak of the everlasting season.
More flower photos.

 The chapel Hutt River Province

Smelly Sox Grevillia

Wreath flower

Wreath flowers. They grow in bare gravel

Everlastings

Cowslip orchid

Camp spot, Coalseam Cons. Park

Dampiera