Miramsmeanderings: Karlgarin and the Nullabor to Streaky Bay

Bill let some air out of the truck tyres as we left Karlfarin in preparation for the 300km journey across the Great Western Woodlands on dirt roads from Hyden to Norseman. The road turned out to be in excellent condition, mostly smooth and wide and through ever changing environments. A most enjoyable two day trip and we had it to ourselves as we scarcely saw another vehicle. We had lunch at The Breakaways, a most interesting and scenic area, with vast amounts of room if one wanted to camp, and colourful cliffs giving shelter. At about 2p.m. we arrived at McDermid Rock, a very large granite outcrop situated well off the road. As we had the detailed directions for the walk up and over the rock off we set. It was a good leg stretcher, with a steep climb up to the summit. Lovely views and a lot of interesting information. The directions were very necessary as the route was not always obvious and at one point they proved to incorrect but we found the correct direction and continued on. It was such a lovely quiet bushy spot that we made camp here and had a peaceful night. The next morning we cruised on along the excellent road to Disappointment Rock. The track in was a liitle on the narrow side and rather over hung with foliage but we scraped through with care. Here we also did the walk and once again found some directions a little vague but after a worrying few minutes we eventually got it right. .Still, another nice leg stretcher. These huge granite outcrops are most interesting. Also called in at Lake Johnson, a salt lake, and had another short walk. This would make another nice camp spot. Arrived in Norseman about lunch time, pumped up tyres, emptied toilet, lunched, filled water tanks etc. before setting off to traverse the Nullabor. Got away about 2.30p.m. and drove to Balladonia Roadhouse where we stopped for a break, a coffee and an ice cream, before continuing on to Woorlba Homestead free camp where a toilet has recently been installed. Unfortunately, very few camp spots across the Nullabor have toilet facilites, which is a shame. Another quiet night and in the morning put our watches 3/4 hour forward as we passed Caiguna. Spent the next night at Eucla Roadhouse where we had a good roast dinner in the restaurant in company with a couple we had met previously when at Osprey Bay. Fun evening.
So far there had been surprisingly sparse traffic on the Nullabor but today there were more trucks. We visited all the Lookouts over the Bunda Cliffs, so spectacular, although since our last visit they have been fenced off so it is impossible to get the edge as one did before. Also called in to The Head of the Bight to look at the whales in the bay. A great many lazing about but only about half a dozen close in with babies. Lunched there then continued on to Coorabie Farm. Coorabie Farm is 8 kms off the Nullabor on the track to Fowler's Bay. This turned out to be a real gem and a highlight. A beautifully looked after manicured farm property with a quaint casual camp area. A happy place where the owners shared the camp fire each evening making everyone feel welcome. Great amenities, camp kitchen etc and lots of character. . A place where all campers sit around the fire socialising. Interaction with Poggy and Deb, the owners, gives Coorabie a unique flavour. While we were here we drove down to Fowler's Bay, which is a tiny remote coastal fishing village backed by enormous blinding white sandhills. We had a tasty crispy fish and chip lunch at the little cafe before going on to find our way to Mexican Hat and Wandilla Beaches. Stunning scenery. Intensely blue and turquoise water,crashing white waves, sheer cliffs, and birds. A very special remote coastline.
From Coorabie we passed through Ceduna where Bill picked up some oysters that he had been hanging out for, and decided to continue on to Streaky Bay as it was such a beautiful day. Had a walk along the beach to finish off this day.