Miramsmeanderings

Tashkent to Urgench to Khiva 11.10.13

An early start as we left for the airport at 7.40am for the flight to Urgench. Another coach ride for the one hour trip to the ancient walled city of Khiva. Khiva is a stunning monument to the history of the region. It is a city in a desert and slave caravans, wild tribesmen and a harsh unrelenting desert are all part of its long (2,000 year) history. Bebe says that the economy of Uzbekistan is doing very well and is based on cotton (5th largest producer in the world), rice, wheat etc., so an agricultural economy. Uzbekistan still has close ties to Russia, who invests a lot in their country. On arrival we checked into our hotel, nice accommodation on the ground floor for a change. We then went straight out for a guided tour of Khiva. Walked a short distance and into Itchan - Kala (the walled inner town of the city) through the ancient gate. The wall is huge and constructed of clay and straw. Very picturesque and solid looking with of four gates, east, west, north and south. A town now swept pretty clean for tourists and is crowded with little souvenir shops and stalls. It is also full of beautiful madrassas, tombs, alley ways, palaces, and fortresses. Superb buildings tiled extensively in shades of blue tiles in lovely intricate patterns. It must have been quite a place in the old days but is now a tourist trap but beautifully preserved and restored. The workmanship is astonishing. We had a very intensive tour including the Pakhlavan Makmud Complex. Most impressive and spectacular. Old cobbled streets. .Went into a coffee shop and some of the group had vodka (Bebe was keen on Vodka). Judy left her bottle holder behind which was a nuisance as we were unable to recover it. Dinner in the hotel tonight. The service was slow but the food was OK.

The north gate into Itchan-Kala

Another view of the wall

Khiva street, mosque and minaret.

Close up of decorations and tiling

Coffee shop

Heavy door all carved

Khiva from outside the wall

Extensively intricately decorated Minaret

Bebe, our guide

Columns all differently decorated

Khiva view

Top of the wall

Old Cobblestones

Kings bed chamber in a palace

More tiling

Khiva view

Tiling view

Tashkent, Uzbekistan 10.10.131

Today we flew to Tashkent. It was a nice flight and on arrival the city surprised us. It is a modern city of 3 million people with lots of cars, beautiful white marble public buildings (built after the Russians left in 1991. The Russian influence was obvious in many other buildings. No high rise here. There are lots of trees along the boulevards, wide streets, and beautifully kept parks everywhere. Unfortunately we really didn't get enough time here to see enough of the city. Our hotel is an old Russian one and the rooms are enormous. The largest hotel room I have ever been in. Huge bathroom. After a lovely lunch in a local restaurant we went to the museum of Applied Art to see arts and crafts throughout the ages. Beautiful things in a lovely old building. Then to the Mosque (rebuilt after an earthquake some years ago) and to a Madrassa, also rebuilt. We were privileged to see Osman's Koran an essential part of Muslim historical and cultural heritage. This Koran, as I recall?, is one of only two in the world, is very ancient and is written in an enormous book on leather pages. It is preserved under glass so no photos, of course. Later we had a quick walk through the Old Market, no time to browse. The market here was fairly ordinary compared to those we have seen elsewhere. Our guide here in Uzbekistan, Bebe, is one for "don't tarry" forced marches. Dinner tonight was in the hotel restaurant and was very good. I had French onion soup and Bill had a croquet monsieur.

Tashkent Airport

Entrance to Mosque

Madrassa

View from our hotel window

Bishkek and Ala Archer National park 9.10.13

Google and Facebook again! This morning we went in our bus about an hour from Bishkek to Ala Archer National Park and had a beautiful walk. We walked steadily uphill along a valley beside a truly lovely rocky mountain stream of rushing clear water. A most beautiful place with autumn colours. So good to be out in the fresh air and walking in such peaceful glorious surroundings. The most sumptuous lunch was served in the hotel in the park at the end of the walk. Amazing quantities and variety of lovely fresh food. Never seen anything like it. After lunch we were treated to a musical soiree of local instruments and a singer with a great voice. Fantastic. The manual dexterity of the musicians was mind blowing. MOst enjoyable interlude. Back in town we had a walk through the Osh Bazaar. Amazing quantities of all sorts of fruits, vegetables, nuts, spices, meats and all sorts of other things. So very colourful. Then a drive to the History Museum. I had a quick look around then sat in the foyer for a rest as I was very tired. We then had a stroll around the parks in the middle of Bishkek. Bishkek is an attractive, busy city with lovely public buildings, open spaces, a great number of trees in lovely parks and treed boulevards. Tonight we had an omelette in the bar as the group farewelled Grant who was leaving early to return to New Zealand.

Bill on a small bridge over a stream in Ala Archer Nat. Park

Ala Archer Nat. Park

Musicians entertaining us after lunch

Leaving on the walk in Ala Archer Nat. Park

Anyone for a pig's head

Spices in the market

Anyone for a nice lump of fat? A delicacy here!

Fresh meat

Market view

Bread for sale

Ala Archer Nat. Park

Drive to Biskek, Kyrgystan 8.10.63

Today we drove through spectacular mountain scenery to the quaint town of Bishkek, a long journey. First we had a nice breakfast which was much more westernized and so really enjoyed. We left Naryn at 9.30am and the road now improved. We passed through more great scenery and stopped at the summit of the Doloo? Pass, 3,700 metrres. It was a beautiful day and we went climbing up the hillsides to where we had a wonderful view of the surrounding area. Eventually arrived at a very modest grey, dusty little town with a lovely background of mountains, some with snow. Here we had a demonstration of felting. All done by hand. Felt is used in many different ways, bags, furnishings, rugs etc. etc. so is important in their way of life. Lunch was served in the yurt at the same place. Interesting food, quite pleasing to western tastes, yogurt, breads, salads. Some of us had a little walk around town to try and get some money but no go at the bank. The local people were friendly and wanted photos with us and to know our ages. The men wear the cutest hats, like small bowls with a flat top and embroidered. Then onto the bus again to continue towards Biskek, the capital of Kyrgystan.
On the drive today we stopped briefly at a roadside settlement? of a few caravan type dwellings and a yurt or two. The local ladies were selling mares milk sweets, water etc. Not to my taste. The toilets? here were a brick 3 sided waist high wall with a few planks over a hole. Beyond description. Not something to be entered!!! Bushes much more preferable.
We got onto a road that had been finished? 5 years ago so a much more comfortable ride although there was still much work to be done. But, suddenly we cruised to a halt and the two drivers leaped out in a great hurry and inspected something. On their return we were told the bus had a problem. By this time it was dark but arrangements were made quickly and we were transferred to another bus for the remainder of the journey. Fortunately we weren't too far from Bishkek. The hotel in Bishkek was very pleasant and the four of us had a lovely light dinner of salads in the restaurant with Grant. So good to be having our kind of food after China.

Doloo Pass view