South Island Friday 17.4.15 Chch to Sydney

A NZ fantail

A Wanaka view

Our hostess, Jenny, made us a very substantial breakfast, then we cleaned up all our bits and pieces in the car and re packed our suitcases ready for the flight home. Last night's BnB was an excellent way to spend our last night in N Z. Beautiful home and garden and friendly welcoming hostess. On our way into Christchurch by 10am. A short easy drive to park near the Museum and Botanic Gardens. Made our way into the museum in order to enquire whether they were interested in a letter that Bill has describing in graphic detail the first ascent of Mt. Whitcombe, made by his Dad when he was at the University of Canterbury in 1931.

South Island Photos Arthur's Pass

Bill in the historic Jackson hotel

Waterfall piped above the road  and protection from falling rocks

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A Kea

The Otira Viaduct, Arthur,s Pass

South Island Thursday 16.4.15 Hokitika to Kirwee

Another blue sky day and , happily , a little warmer this morning. Breakfast back at Stumpers then another walk on the beach. Hokitika is a most attractive town with exceptionally wide streets, the sea on one boundary and ringed by snow capped mountains. Lots lovely shops selling greenstone and high quality arts and crafts, art glassware etc. in 1867 Hokitika was NZs premier port with sailing ships lined up 3 and 4 deep at the wharf.
Continued on our way and first stop for morning tea at the historic hotel in Jackson. There is nothing else in Jackson except the hotel. Interesting place with stuffed animals and birds and many old artefacts around the room and a lovely open fire with real wood in a stone fireplace. Very friendly lady running the establishment. Now we entered Arthur's Pass and the Otira Gorge. Quite an engineering feat especially the Otira Viaduct. Another picnic lunch at Arthur's Pass village then a rest beside Lake Pearson, a wildlife refuge.
Our BnB tonight is a lovely home with an extensive garden in a rural setting. Welcoming and informative a good way to spend our last night in the country. Dinner at the local pub.

Lake Pearson

Always mountain views

South Island Wednesday, 15.4.15 Franz Joseph to Hokitika

Woke up to a very cold morning and a car well iced up. Decided not to bother with walk up to Franz Joseph Glacier because the walk is now 1 1/2 hours for a distant view and we saw it twice in previous visits  before it receded so far. First stop Lake Mapourika for the reflections. Watched the mists rise off the water and a group of novice kayakers having a lesson.

Next stop, Okarito Lagoon, the home of the Kotuku (the NZ white heron, a sacred bird). Two Kotuku in the distance on the lagoon. Unfortunately tours run from September to March (breeding season) so most of them have dispersed. We did the wetland and trig walk uphill, of course, but lovely, before continuing. Stopped at Whataroa River for photos of river then at the tiny hamlet of HRi Hari for lunch. Two young ladies have set up a kiosk on the side of the road selling hot drinks, pies etc. Bought  a cup of tea and a slice of apple shortcake had our cheese and bikkies, Apple etc. in the park behind the van. Very peaceful and a lovely day. 

The little town of Ross turned out to have an interesting history and we spent some time in the little well done museum and across the street speaking to a fellow who makes greenstone jewellery by hand laboriously. A most interesting person. Showed us some amazing pieces he had created.  Ross has a long gold mining history and apparently the town is sitting on huge reserves of alluvial gold. 

Once we arrived in Hokitika we called in at the I Site to get directions to our accommodation. The most helpful volunteer lady also organised accommodation for our next night on the way into Christchurch at a BnB in a little place called Kirwee.  Our tonight's accommodation at the Shining Star is top notch. A log cabin right on the beach, spa bath, loft bedroom, kitchenette etc. Had a very relaxing stroll on the beach. Beaches here on the west coast are fine black sand with heaps of driftwood which has come down the rivers and out to sea in floods, then washed back onto the beaches. The beach here is also interesting for fossicking as it is possible to find lumps of greenstone and other minerals as well as  Quartz and smooth glaciated stones.  

The sunset here is renowned as the sun goes down over the sea. It didn't fail us. Went into town and had very good dinner of salmon and venison at Stumpers Bar and Cafe

Reflections Lake Mapourika

Sunset over Hokitika Beach

Bill on the beach

South Island Photos West Coast

Thunder Falls, Haast Pass

A view from Knight's Point, West Coast

Typical Westland river, blue water and shingle beds, mountains in background

South Island Tuesday 14.4.15 Wanaka to Franz Joseph

Another very cold but fine morning. 2 degrees. The sun was highlighting the Aspiring Range and Wanaka was looking its best. Away before 9 am this morning for the long drive ahead. Perfect weather for it. Lake Hawea was looking magnificent with high well bushed steep sides diving into the blue water. Autumn leaves abounded.
Surely a highlight of our trip so far was the journey across Haast Pass. A truly beautiful drive. Wonderful beech forests, waterfalls, rushing cataracts, water so clear it was almost invisible  and stones in the stream beds of such interesting colours and smooth shapes . It was very cold (3deg) and in the higher areas snow still graced the branches of the trees. Very pretty. Did several short walks into the the forests and down to fantail falls etc. also visited Thunder Falls. Had a picnic lunch of cheese and biscuits, a banana and a ginger nut and a takeaway cup of tea in tiny Haast township.
The great scenery continued as we travelled up the coast, stopping at Knights Lookout and Lake Paringa, ocean views and especially the Unmodified bush.
Drove up to Fox Glacier but the glacier has now retreated so far it is a considerable walk to the view point and you still can't see much so gave it a miss as getting late. On to Franz Joseph and found our "cottage" for the night. Modest but Ok. A rest after a long day's drive then dinner at Aluce May's Restaurant.

A walk in the beech forest with snow on the branches

Fantail Falls Haast Oass

Water so clear you can barely see it

South Island Monday13.4.15 Queenstown to Wanaka

When we left our apartment to go and find breakfast we were greeted with the sight of snow covered mountains around Lake Wakatipu. The day was looking good until after a good breakfast at the "Boatshed" we emerged and the weather was deteriorating fast. Drove into town and discovered the snow was well down the Gondola and it was snowing hard up at the top. Jumped onto the Gondola and went up into the snow. Lots of it and a wind blowing snow flurries around. Quick peeks outside to take pics but mostly we stayed in the building and looked out was it extremely cold out there. Had a hot chocolate and a coffee before descending. Left Queenstown about 11am and left in a snowstorm. By this time white was everywhere. Quite a sight. Eventually we left the worst of it behind and by the time we reached Cromwell the day was dry. Passed through the Gibbston wine area, looking attractive with the vines in autumn foliage. Also travelled through the Kawerau Gorge, spectacular above the mighty Kawerau river. Cromwell is a delightful little town in the centre of a soft fruit growing district. Bought some apricots. Cromwell looks as if it was fairly recently built with a really nice shopping precinct and prosperous looking housing areas. Had a Google lunch of tomato and roasted garlic soup.
Arrived in Wanaka early afternoon and the town is ringed by mountains with a good snow cover. Looking  beautiful and exceedingly prosperous. Took a drive up the lake towards Mt. Aspiring and admired the views, autumn leaves and attractive homes and their lovely gardens.

Looking up Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown 

Looking across Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown, early morning 

Looking across Lake Wanaka

South Island Sunday 12.4.15 Doubtful Sound to Queenstown

Heavy prolonged rain overnight and cold temperatures. The staff produced a great breakfast. By the time that was finished day had dawned and we were treated to the sight of hundreds of waterfalls streaming off the mountainsides and plunging into the fiord. A spectacular sight so we are pleased it rained for us to see it. Bill and I found a sheltered spot on the back of the boat from where we were able to watch the passing scenery. During the bus trip back over the Wilmot Pass in hail and sleet we saw thundering cascades were there had been gentle creeks on the way in yesterday. Back in Manapouri the rain eased enough for us to disembark in relative comfort. Collected the car from the motel in Te Anau and after a late lunch drove to Queenstown. The weather cleared and we had a pleasant drive until approaching Queenstown the weather cracked up again. Freezing and quite a dusting of snow on the Remarkables. Dinner in the local pub near the motel and drove back through more sleet. Sunday night calls to the kids.

Waterfalls after rain

A view of Doubtful Sound

South Island Saturday 11.4.15 Te Anau to Doubtful Sound

Ice on the windscreen this morning but a clear blue sky. When we went down town for breakfast the lake was looking a picture. Mists were rising and swirling just above the surface and it gave the lake An eerie look.
We left the motel at 10am, leaving the car behind on the motel owners lawn hidden behind a tree, to walk down to the Real Journeys office to catch our bus to Lake Manapouri and board the boat for Doubtful Sound. Sat in the sun overlooking the lake while we waited. Finally underway on Lake Manapouri with a full complement on the way to West Arm where everyone disembarked. Nice trip up the lake with fringing mountain views. Transferred onto a coach for the trip over to Doubtful Sound. Spectacular road, deepest gorges, beech forests etc.
All 70 persons  boarded the Navigator,

Lake Te Anau

The Navigator. Taken when we were off the boat on a tender exploring the area more closely

View up the sound on a grey day

our home for the next 24 hours. Our room is small but cosy with our own tiny bathroom. The boat is quite large and well appointed with plenty of seating and viewing areas inside and out on decks. The weather was grey but calm which made photography difficult but gave a mystical look to the scenery. The mountains are enormously high and mostly almost vertical as they plunge into the fiord, with much evidence of tree avalanches and regeneration of old Avalanche sites. The fiord is 400 metres deep. Dinner was great with a large selection of dishes on a buffet.  All so well organised. Soup course before we ventured out the end of the fiord into the Southern ocean to see a seal colony on the islands at the mouth of the fiord. Quite rocky for a little while. Then main and dessert when we returned to sheltered waters. Early to bed in our cosy cabin.

South Island 10.4.15 Stewart Island to Te Anau

Up early again today to get the 8am ferry back to Bluff. Another lovely sunrise and a flat calm morning which augured well for a happy crossing of Foveaux Strait. Max and Chris were waiting for us on the wharf and as their ferry was delayed we were able to have a decent chat. They are also having a wonderful trip. After collecting the car we drove straight through Invercargill and on to Riverton where we spent some time in the museum recommended by Max and Chris.

Sunrise over the Bay from our balcony at the Bay Motel, Oban

A mob of sheep that we had to stop for

Oban from the ferry as we were leaving 

Excellent display of the Maori and European history of the district. Lunch in Mrs. Clarks  Cafe  est. 1891.  A more innovative menu and I had delicious fish cakes. Bill tried the equally good Mexican corn fritters. An unexpected find in a tiny somewhat run down little village. But when we emerged it had started to rain! And the rain came down harder and harder. We stopped at the Clifden Suspension Bridge ( now closed to traffic) that was quite an engineering feat in 1890. At the time it was the longest span suspension bridge in NZ. The concrete pillars were all mixed and poured by hand in buckets. The rain eased off fortunately and after checking in to our motel in Te Anau we went down to Real Journeys to check in for tomorrow's trip to Doubtful Sound. Te Anau has changed enormously since our last visit. Much development and many more shops etc. heaps of accommodation all seeming to show no vacancy signs. We walked down to dinner at The Moose in the freezing cold. A nice dinner in a very busy restaurant, lamb shanks for Bill and melt in the mouth pork belly for me.

South Island Thurs 9.4.15 Stewart Island

Up very early this morning to cook breakfast and walk up the Fuschia Track and then down steep Golden Bay Road to the little wharf where we were to catch a water taxi across to Ulva Island. A lovely morning, still, and fine although cold. Our guide arrived and we jumped into the water taxi for the 5 minute trip across to Ulva. The bush here has never been touched and is more open than areas that have regrown. Very beautiful with ferns and mosses and old trees. Ulva has been completely rid of pest animals and some birds have been relocated here to breed up in safety. For instance the Saddleback. Our purpose was to see as many birds as possible but it seemed most of the birds were on holiday, sadly.  However, our guide was very knowledgeable about the plants and history etc. etc. and did her best to locate the birds we wanted to see. We did see 3 Saddlebacks, lots brown creepers (tiny birds), wekas, heard lots of tuis and bellbirds, saw wood pigeons but no yellow heads, fern birds. Rather cold deep in the forest. Back at lunch time then a veg out few hours reclining on the bed with the sun coming into the room. Most pleasant. The weather then clouded over and got cold again so we went wandering through the village and sat in the pub having a drink in the warm. Dinner at the Kai Kart tonight. Been told so many times that they do the best fish ever so will see.
Now been to dinner and the fish and chips was no better or worse than most places but it is a quaint old caravan that seats about six. Chatted to a local eating there and a nice family from Auckland.

Stewart Island Robin, very friendly

Two wekas busy eating crabs when we turned rocks over for them

 A Saddleback, distant view but showing his bright tan back

South Island Wed 8.4.15 Invercargill to Stewart Island

Awoke to a clear blue sky and promise of a fine day. Pat cooked us a full breakfast and after a chat we got away about 9 a.m. About half an hour drive to Bluff which is a sad looking place. Collected boarding passes for the ferry to Stewart Island and dropped our suitcases into a big metal bin. Went off and found the end of the road. One can go no further on the mainland. Had a very ordinary coffee and a biscuit at a fairly dilapidated coffee shop cum gallery. By this time it had seriously clouded over and wasn't looking too flash at all except that it was still, mercifully, calm.Boarded and left right on time.  The trip over was a good one apparently, although lots of spray came on board. We sat out the back in the fresh air up against the cabin. So we were mostly protected and, fortunately, the sea sick pills I got in Invercargill were successful. Arrived on the dot of 12pm and Charlotte from the Bay Motel was there with her van to transport us to the Bay Motel. The motel is up the hill above the tiny township of Oban, and before taking us there she gave us a quick tour.
Wandered down to the South Seas hotel and had seafood chowder for lunch. Then, had a leisurely look around town exploring what there is. Bill walked over the hill to where we pick up our tour to Ulva Island tomorrow. My highlight was standing on a bush track near the motel watching and listening to a tui singing his heart out. By now, the weather, although cool, had cleared and, hopefully will be good for our excursion tomorrow.

Oban, Half Moon Bay Stewart Island from motel balcony

The end of the road. There is no more.

A kaka on our balcony

South Island Tuesday 7.4.15 Owaka, Catlins to Invercargill

Left Owaka about 9 am on a sunny warm morning and our first stop was McLeans Falls. A walk through the most beautiful, thick lush pristine forest to reach the falls which are the highest in the area. Very lovely. Continued on to morning tea at Niagara bay cafe ( the only establishment) which had a colourful garden featuring dahlias and marigolds. Next stop, Curio Bay to see the Petrified Forest on the beach. A girl with sharp eyes spotted a couple of yellow eyed penguins in the bush below the stairs to the beach. We peered down at them through the flax bushes. How lucky was that. Continued on to Slope Pt., the most southerly point on the SouthIsland. The wind nearly tore my hair out by the roots. Nothing much to see except a wild Southern Ocean. Finally arrived in Invercargill and tried to find a late lunch, but the town was well and truly shut. Apparently it was a public holiday tacked on to Easter. Eventually discovered a cafe with some yesterday's sandwiches. I think today we saw at least half a million sheep.

Petrified forest, Curio Bay

McLeans Falls, Catlins

Sheep sheep and still more sheep

Our BnB turned out to be about 10kms out of town and is run by ex farmers. Nice large property and friendly hosts. Well set up with snacks tea etc and our own sitting area.
Some days ago we noticed that the rental car we have had run out of registration. Many phone calls but over Easter couldn't get matter fixed but today we went out to the airport and swapped the car for a legal one. Bradley, at the airport was most apologetic for the error and we have a much newer car.
Dinner out at quite an expensive restaurant where the servings were huge. Invercargill seems a bigger place than we had envisaged.

South Island Monday 6.4.15 Dunedin to Owaka

Said goodbye to Peter and Maya at Leithview after a good breakfast and a visit to the cows being milked. Drove through good sheep country to Balclutha where we called into the I Site for information on the Catlins.  After a cup of tea continued on to Owaka along the scenic coastal route.  Our BnB for tonight (Catlins Retreat) was at the beginning of the little town and Robbie, the host, met us at

A portion of Teapot World, Owaka. This lady has a couple of thousand teapots arranged in the front garden. Invites people to take photos and nobody interferes with them. Amazing.

Hookers Sea Lions

Purakanui Falls

the door in his wood collecting clothes. Quite a character, very warm and welcoming. The home is a lovely old wooden NZ home , fires going etc.  Lunch at a cafe, carrot soup with cumin.
 Our afternoon's activities took us first of all out to Purakanui Falls. The bush on the walk to the falls was magnificent and the falls themselves very pretty. Drove back through Owaka and out to Cannibal Bay. The weather was looking threatening and the wind was strong but we strode up the beach to find sea lions. Very large males with thick white neck ruffs haul out here. Back to the car as the rain arrived but fortunately it cleared pretty much before we got to Nugget Point. Walked out to the Cliff Lookout before going downhill to the lookout over Roaring Beach where yellow eyed penguins come in later in the afternoon. Sadly, only two turned up and the hide is high above the beach so we had only a distant view. Back up the hill and back to Owaka.
For dinner we walked up the street to the Lumberjack Cafe. Had a great meal. Delicious blue cod and veg and not a chip in sight . So good we decided to have dessert. Hot boysenberries and ice cream. A lovely restaurant (open fire etc) in a tiny town. Such a surprise.

South Island Sunday. 5.4.15. Dunedin

We were diffident about our accommodation when we arrived here yesterday but it has turned out to be really good. It is a short way outside the city centre up a long rough gravel rutted driveway and appeared to be a modest home. The owners have 40 acres and have cows, calves, many ducks, ducklings, dog, cat, bird. Maya, the hostess milks the cows and makes delicious cheeses from the milk. Also sells fresh milk and eggs. Peter, the host, collects old Land Rovers to do up, has some interesting vehicles. They have a glorious and extensive garden of natives and exotics and the birdsong is constant. Our room turned out to be quite comfortable.
Today we explored Dunedin and the Otago Peninsula. Dunedin is a most attractive city with beautiful buildings from the gold rush days in the 1870s plus. The Anglican cathedral is particularly lovely iwith an interior of pale cream Oamaru limestone. An elegant simplicity. Although small it is

St. Paul's Anglican Cathedral

A tiny part of the garden at Leithview BnB

Baldwin Street. The world's steepest street. 

One of the nicest cathedrals I have ever seen.
We drove slowly along the "low" road to the end of the Orago Peninsula stopping for lunch in the tiny coastal settlement of Portobello. Most of the road, with endless twists and turns, follows immediately above the waterline with ever changing water views. On arrival, we spent quite some time in the Royal Albatross Centre viewing their excellent displays. Then we walked down to the viewing area above the cliffs at the end of the Peninsula to see if any Albatross were flying. Yes, they were and we had some really close up views as they flew in over us. Fantastic birds. Huge wingspan and such ease of flight. Very happy to see them.
Returned to Dunedin via the Highcliff road which was very steep and narrow with huge views over both sides of the Peninsula.
Maya had a platter of her cheeses for us to try when we returned to the BnB. Quite exceptional. So, another good day, particularly as the weather improved steadily all day.

South Island Saturday 5.4.15 Mt. Cook to Dunedin

Awoke to pouring rain. Aurora Motel was excellent, bed and linen and kitchen equipment etc. all new and good quality. NZ really has gone up a notch although it was alwYs good at tourism now it is even better. After I cooked breakfast we got away at 9 am. By the time we had gone about 20 kms the rain was disappearing Nd we were treated to a perfect arch of a bright rainbow.  Pukaki was rough with waves and white caps. Autumn leaves are now mKing their appearance.  At Otematata we diverted a short distance to Lake Benmore Htdro station. A huge lake. As we continued along the road we noticed lots of free camping going on beside the lake wherever they could get near it. Fishing is obviously big.  Morning tea in the village of Kurow at the GameKeepers Cafe.  Yummy carrot cake.

Oamaru was such a surprise. We discovered the historical precinct dating from the 1870s to early 1900s. In those days Oamaru was a booming and rich town with a very busy port. This was because of wool and then the advent of frozen lamb to Britain. The wonderful old limestone warehouse and wool store buildings have been preserved and the area has become a fascinating mix of interesting shops and activities. We called into a rare books bookshop and I found a mountaineering book that has information re Bill's father and a climb he did when at the university of Otago. Bill bought it and The proprietor then found for me a copy of a book my father had ,but which went missing, and that I had enjoyed as a child. Old New Zealand by a Pakeha Maori is a classic of very early NZ literature and the copy that disappeared was a first edition. Anyway, now I have a later edition. OamRu has many fine public buildings built from the local limestone including an impressive Opera House.

Passed on through the Waitaki Valley, rolling green hills dotted with white sheep. The Waitaki and McKenzie country are where the best of New Zealand's fine merino wool originate.  

Finally got to Dunedin about 4 pm. and the weather turned nasty again, cold and wet. Found our accommodation and later went downtown and had dinner at the Wig and Pen pub. 

View of Harbour Street. The warehouse area

Limestone Church

Opera house